Welted Shoemaking Knife Review: Bestechman Turtle BM20D and the Button Lock
Bestechman Turtle BM20D 14C28N titanium handle button lock knife on a shoemaking last with welt and awl

Overview & First Impressions

Hand-welted shoemaking uses a shoemaker's knife for almost everything, but a folding knife still earns a place for trimming a welt, cutting lining and opening a box of nails and thread. The button lock is the feature that makes a folder viable here: it releases with one thumb, so the knife can be closed while the other hand holds a last. The Bestechman Turtle BM20D, in titanium and 14C28N, is built for that.

Materials & Construction

14C28N gives a fine, stable edge that can be refreshed on a strop between shoes, which is what a shoemaker does rather than stopping to sharpen properly. It also resists the waxes and adhesives used in lasting, which is more than can be said for a plain carbon steel. Bestechman knives fits titanium scales, so the handle is light and does not swell or stain when the workshop is humid.

Bestechman Turtle BM20D 14C28N titanium handle button lock knife on a shoemaking last with welt and awl detail

Design & Details

The Turtle is a compact folder with a button lock set into the scale, a broad drop point and a handle that fills the hand without being bulky. The button can be pressed from either side, which makes the knife genuinely ambidextrous, and the blade drops shut under control rather than snapping. That controlled close matters when the other hand is holding leather.

Real-World Use

At the bench the knife trims a welt to a pencil line, cuts lining leather to a pattern, slices the thread on a stitch and opens boxes of nails and buckles. It also cuts the leather for a heel stack. Among folding knives used in leather trades, a button lock is the mechanism that gets chosen most often, because it can be operated without moving the grip on a slippery piece of leather.

Bestechman Turtle BM20D 14C28N titanium handle button lock knife on a shoemaking last with welt and awl close up

Ownership Notes

Leather work brings wax, glue and dye into contact with the blade, so wipe it after each operation and clean the button recess with a brush. Do not let contact cement dry on the blade; it will lift the finish before it damages the steel. Strop often. EdcMall stocks the Turtle in titanium and G10, and the titanium version is the one that feels best against a leather apron. Shoemakers judge a folding knife by how it behaves with wax on the handle. This one stays controllable, and the button releases cleanly even after a morning of contact cement and hand-waxed thread, which is more than most folders manage.

Who Is This For?

Buy it if you work leather with hand tools and want a folder that opens and closes with one hand. It suits the shoemaker, the saddler and the bag maker. Skip it if your work is heavy cutting on a bench with a fixed blade, where a shoemaker's knife and a head knife will always beat a folder.

Final Verdict

The Turtle BM20D is the most practical folding knife I have used in a leather workshop. The button lock is fast and safe with one hand, 14C28N refreshes on a strop in seconds, and the compact handle does not foul a last. It complements a shoemaker's knife rather than replacing it.

Shop the Bestechman Turtle BM20D at EdcMall

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